Rigging an Anchor for use with a Windlass

[Crusader]

Guys,

Just a query regarding rigging an anchor for use with a windlass - should it be set to trip, as i find that when it is set and it comes back inboard the tie wraps snap and it then not possible to fully retrieve. When i took delivery of the boat the anchor was not rigged to trip - any advice from those who know aprreciated.

Thanks

Dave

[snowy]

Dave,

I have the same problem and there is no easy answer. I haul the last couple of feet by hand to guide it in. You really have to decide whether to do that or rig it without a trip.

Another option that I use, but a lot of peole dont like, is to rig your anchor with a rotten bottom. I have six feet of rope between the anchor and the chain that is weaker than the anchor rope.

If all else fails then at least the rope snaps and you get back your chain. That is the expensive bit, you can buy 8kg anchors in Aquafax for £12.50 at the moment. Almost a throwaway item at that price.

[Sunny]

I've just fitted mine Dave and have loaded it with more cable ties than I used to have when using the Alderney (bouy) technique.

I will still carry a bouy in case the anchor sticks and won't 'trip' and I need to use the bouy to break it free.

Its going to be a learning curve for me too

[Crusader]

Thanks for the advice guys - saw your boat on it mooring yesterday Sunny!

I find that when it comes through the rollers the cable ties snap and then it fouls up and you have to go up front to sort out and guide it in, making it a two man operation - which is far from ideal.

Will have to keep thinking for the moment and see if I can solve it a better way.

Dave

[Sunny]

Jun 5, 2010 9:10:13 GMT Crusader said:

Thanks for the advice guys - saw your boat on it mooring yesterday Sunny!

I find that when it comes through the rollers the cable ties snap and then it fouls up and you have to go up front to sort out and guide it in, making it a two man operation - which is far from ideal.

Will have to keep thinking for the moment and see if I can solve it a better way.
Dave

She's a bit nose heavy Dave
Reckon I'm going to have to put the 150 on the back to compensate

[snowy]

Dave,

I assume your winch controls are in the wheelhouse? if so that is not very helpfull when you need to supervise the anchors drop and retrieval. I had exactly the same problem so I bought a remote control that I can take up the front with me and have instant access to the anchor. that way you can deal with problems directly as they arise.

A second option is to fit foot controls by the anchor locker, the advantage with them is that it leaves your hands free.

[Crusader]

Jun 7, 2010 17:04:51 GMT snowy said:

Dave,

I assume your winch controls are in the wheelhouse? if so that is not very helpfull when you need to supervise the anchors drop and retrieval. I had exactly the same problem so I bought a remote control that I can take up the front with me and have instant access to the anchor. that way you can deal with problems directly as they arise.

A second option is to fit foot controls by the anchor locker, the advantage with them is that it leaves your hands free.

Yep controls are in the wheelhouse, however have encountered a new problem in that the anchor rope is the wrong diameter so slips on the gypsy wheel, and secondly there is only approx 40 of 50 foot of rope and maybe 5 or 6 m of chain, having now taken a close look inside the rope locker, i am not confident that i will get either 75 or 100m of 12mm rope plus chain and still have the required 140mm drop below the windlass - its all a bit tight.

But i am liking the remote option but first is to replace the rope.

Thanks again for the help and if there is anything else you think of then its appreciated.

Dave