Rod repair.

[richyp07]

I have just had a Greys Mercury Rod off a mate. The handle has worn away and the reel seat clamp is lookin abit tired. I was thinking of replacing the sleeve of the handle and reel clamp. Would it be something i can do myself or am i better off payin sum1 to do it properly?

[basskingfifteen]

fairly easy to do rich, just be careful cutting the reel seat off ........

the shrink tube is easy enough to replace, are you gona put a reel seat back on or use coasters ?



paul in sandown scotties will do a good job,good price as well

[richyp07]

I was thinking of replacing it for coasters?? I will probly have a go at doing it myself i recon.

[lighty]

easy to do m8, think ukhooks is the cheapest for shrink tube.

lighty

[olsmelly]

Jan 10, 2010 9:29:47 GMT richyp07 said:

I have just had a Greys Mercury Rod off a mate. The handle has worn away and the reel seat clamp is lookin abit tired. I was thinking of replacing the sleeve of the handle and reel clamp. Would it be something i can do myself or am i better off payin sum1 to do it properly?

Handle wear is reasonably easy to repair yourself. Several mail-order tackle firms, like Veals, stock the required replacement foam covers. Shrink wrap is a very common item in most decent tackle shops.

Just rip off the old handle padding, lightly sand down the rough bits left and slide on the new pads. Make sure you use a non-dissolving waterproof glue, which is slow drying, like the good old "angler's Glue", available on line and in tackle shops. A shrink wrap finish is pretty much dé rigeur in these repairs.

The replacement of the reel seat is more complicated. The first thing to do is to work out if the seat forms a structural part of the handle, or is a sheath only.

Is it a plastic, or metal construction?

Plastic/composite reel seats are best left in situ. Cut off the screw fixing and grind down the remaining threads to the level of the unthreaded sheath. Try to get a good level surface along the remainder of the reel seat sheath.

Source a Fuji replacement slider reel seat (Veals?).

These are fixed by whipping the ends on to the handle. I use old braid for this (Braided Dacron in the old days)........ 30lb, or 50lb BS is best. I also lay a seat of resin along the spine of the seat, to enhance rigidity and bond to the existing reel seat sheath.

Finish the whipping by the application of liquid resin, working it well into the weave of the braid.

The result is a well-nigh indestructible replacement reel seat, capable of handling the heaviest fishing (one similar replacement I did was on an 80lb class rod).

Final cosmetic finish may be with a metallic, or matt paint. I tend to bulk the paint with aluminium powder, available from W. Hobby Ltd. This ensures a smooth finish to the whipping; effectively hiding it. The final touch is to lacquer the finish with flexible dope, or lacquer, once again available from most tackle shops.

[castfromthepast]

having just read with interest (and a lot of chuckling), i hope the advise given by olsmelly will not actually be taken on board by any budding rod-builders, or some-one wanting to tackle this fairly easy 'home re-do'.
The advise given by bk 17 sounds very reasonable and simplistic and will avoid any 'disasters'.
To cut off a Fuji reel seat use a hack saw, cut, at an angle, the stainless steel collar that is fixed to the reel seat, then gently prise open with a screw driver and pull it off. the back band will simply come off by unscrewing the locking nut. To get the plastic composite tube off that you are left with, gently score with a stanley blade along the 'slot' on the back of the tubing, it will then start to open slightly, with a pair of needle nose pliers you should be able to twist and break away in pieces the old reel fitting. There will normally be araldite and/or masking tape left behind. this can be gently picked away with a stanley blade. You will need to rub down this section, any lumps and bumps will show when the new shrink-tube is added. Take your time about this job. Once done, slide the shrink-tube up to where you want it to go, and shrink down by pouring boiling water on working down the butt. Then take a 6" section of the same shrink-tube and shrink that down in the position that your coasters will be, then when it gets scarred up, just replace the 6" length. Jack

[spud]

Jan 16, 2010 15:57:54 GMT olsmelly said:

Jan 10, 2010 9:29:47 GMT richyp07 said:

I have just had a Greys Mercury Rod off a mate. The handle has worn away and the reel seat clamp is lookin abit tired. I was thinking of replacing the sleeve of the handle and reel clamp. Would it be something i can do myself or am i better off payin sum1 to do it properly?

Handle wear is reasonably easy to repair yourself. Several mail-order tackle firms, like Veals, stock the required replacement foam covers. Shrink wrap is a very common item in most decent tackle shops.

Just rip off the old handle padding, lightly sand down the rough bits left and slide on the new pads. Make sure you use a non-dissolving waterproof glue, which is slow drying, like the good old "angler's Glue", available on line and in tackle shops. A shrink wrap finish is pretty much dé rigeur in these repairs.

The replacement of the reel seat is more complicated. The first thing to do is to work out if the seat forms a structural part of the handle, or is a sheath only.

Is it a plastic, or metal construction?

Plastic/composite reel seats are best left in situ. Cut off the screw fixing and grind down the remaining threads to the level of the unthreaded sheath. Try to get a good level surface along the remainder of the reel seat sheath.

Source a Fuji replacement slider reel seat (Veals?).

These are fixed by whipping the ends on to the handle. I use old braid for this (Braided Dacron in the old days)........ 30lb, or 50lb BS is best. I also lay a seat of resin along the spine of the seat, to enhance rigidity and bond to the existing reel seat sheath.

Finish the whipping by the application of liquid resin, working it well into the weave of the braid.

The result is a well-nigh indestructible replacement reel seat, capable of handling the heaviest fishing (one similar replacement I did was on an 80lb class rod).

Final cosmetic finish may be with a metallic, or matt paint. I tend to bulk the paint with aluminium powder, available from W. Hobby Ltd. This ensures a smooth finish to the whipping; effectively hiding it. The final touch is to lacquer the finish with flexible dope, or lacquer, once again available from most tackle shops.

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
or you could just go for it big style

;D

[basskingfifteen]

sounds a bit :confused: was under the impression that the only way to remove a reel seat was as jack (C F T P )had described , with more than a fair amount of knowledge on the subject .....

only way to do it properly is take your time ! and be careful


dunno if id fancy putting the black and decker to a rod butt

by the way have you done it yet rich ?

[richyp07]

Yeh BK I have sorted the rod now. Wasn't as difficult as i expected... Cut the old shrink tube off and unscrewed the reel seat. Fitted new shrink tube (mrs hairdryer), coasters and butt. Job done in about 20mins.