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Post by wightsurf on Jan 18, 2010 20:07:45 GMT
On my outboard i have snapped a bolt in the caseing :bash: :bash:
What would the best way be to drill it out any ideas .
Its one of 4 bolts that holds the thermostat plate in place.
This bolts direct into the head of the outboard.
It's a 80hp so moving the outboard would be tricky unless it got towed with the boat.
Thanks for any help
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Post by monkeynuts on Jan 18, 2010 20:46:53 GMT
not trying to teach to suck eggs but..................
if its stainless in alloy, be very carefull. as the alloy is a lot softer than the stainless and the drill will wonder off in to the alloy if done wrong.evne mild steel will be harder than alloy
if you realy cant get it out any other way, id file the bolt flat on the end, then very carefully center pop it dead center. start off with a small drill then go up a couple of mm then on up to the tap size for the bolt and re tap the tread. just go easy and take your time and keep the drill straight and dont go to deep(mark depth on drill with tape).
if it does go wrong you can do a repiar with a helly coil, but that is last resort(thay are very strong).
hope that helps
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Post by wightsurf on Jan 18, 2010 23:24:26 GMT
Thanks monkeynuts,
But the part left in the case is not visible .only half come out. It broke off where the thread starts.
I have a hole with the left over bit stuck down inside the hole.
Not good at all.
I was thinking maybe get a drill bit smaller than the hole and put some sort of packing around the drill bit to stop it going of course into the casing. Maybe make a jig up or use chemical metal around the drill bit , i don't know this is doing my head in.....lol
open to ideas
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Post by baggsy on Jan 19, 2010 0:08:23 GMT
Another method which iv'e used and works well if you can get your hands on a welder on just a normal or high tensile bolt unplug any ECU's or eletronics 1 clean the remains of the broken bolt with a wire brush 2 slip a washer over the snapped bolt 3 weld the washer to the snapped bolt 4 weld a nut to the washer 5 whilst hot fitting socket onto the nut 6 work back and forth whilst hot The heat from the weld should help alot to unseize the broken stud alone..  |
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Post by baggsy on Jan 19, 2010 0:56:48 GMT
Thanks monkeynuts, But the part left in the case is not visible .only half come out. It broke off where the thread starts. I have a hole with the left over bit stuck down inside the hole. Not good at all. I was thinking maybe get a drill bit smaller than the hole and put some sort of packing around the drill bit to stop it going of course into the casing. Maybe make a jig up or use chemical metal around the drill bit , i don't know this is doing my head in.....lol open to ideas Got a big problem lol If a Professional do it they will most likely drill out broken bolt and re thread hole by running right size tap through it or fit a helicoil if necessary |
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Post by monkeynuts on Jan 19, 2010 16:32:48 GMT
if you have it broken down in side the hole. i would drill a bolt the same size thead though the center and screew it in to the hole and then you have a giude and it should keep you drill central.
think that makes sense
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Post by wightsurf on Jan 19, 2010 17:32:14 GMT
I thought about drilling through the centre of the bolt, but i doubt it's as easy as it sounds :ahhh: Going to have to give it a go though  Thanks for the ideas all |
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Post by monkeynuts on Jan 19, 2010 17:49:07 GMT
if you get stuck, let me know the size and thread and il drill 1 on the lathe at work and post it to you
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Post by wightsurf on Jan 19, 2010 19:20:51 GMT
Thanks monkeynuts
If i get stuck i will do, and post a few ££ for your time
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Post by baggsy on Jan 19, 2010 22:27:22 GMT
Another idea which is copied from another thread i found..which i rate... i've always welded stuck bolts out myself..after trying everything else.
A co-worker showed me a copy of an article from one of his metalworking magazines that had an article on this subject. It was pretty much in line with this thread but had one other tip for cases where the broken off bolt (or tap) is well below the surface.
Instead of using tubing as a sleeve, the guy took a new threaded bolt with the same diameter and thread pitch as the broken bolt and drilled a hole through it to use as the protective sleeve. Run this into the hole as far as possible then fill up with weld. This also eliminates the need to weld the nub to a washer and the washer to a nut. It also should pretty much ensure that the threads are protected.
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Post by wightsurf on Jan 19, 2010 22:51:14 GMT
Baggsy
Would it not snap again when trying to remove the bolt.
It sounds a good idea but it's past my DIY skills im afraid.
It might be a case of taking it to the shop and getting it done there , but at £50 + vat a hr
i would be pleased if i can get this bit out.
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Post by sailorboyrob on Jan 19, 2010 22:53:14 GMT
Satinless bolts and alloy casing, why do they do it? :bash: :bash:
You will have fun drilling that one out, i would recommend using a cobalt drill bit and go very slowly or you will over heat the drill bit and just polish the end of the bolt.
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Post by baggsy on Jan 19, 2010 23:18:23 GMT
Baggsy Would it not snap again when trying to remove the bolt. It sounds a good idea but it's past my DIY skills im afraid. It might be a case of taking it to the shop and getting it done there , but at £50 + vat a hr i would be pleased if i can get this bit out. The heat from the weld will unseize it. at the moment it's seized from aliminium and steel corroded almost weld like. thats why you wont get it apart not even soaked in plus gas or the like... Sent you a PM |
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