Post by richi on Dec 10, 2010 8:35:52 GMT
A couple of excellent articles written by my friend Mark Crame.
Going out:
Sometimes when you want to launch the waves are a bit bigger than you’d like but still within reason. So, deciding that you still want to launch and you are confident that you can get through them what do you need to do to assist yourself in getting out? Well, the first thing to do is look at what is happening and think:
On the shore, look at what is happening in front of you. There is an advantage over coming back in here in that it is far easier to see what is happening and place it visually in terms of height and distance. Don’t be in a rush to get on the water as a couple of minutes now can save ten minutes if it goes wrong. Things to look for:
Rip currents. Lots of water is hitting the beach and it has to go somewhere, specifically it has to leave and this route out is what you’re looking for as the rip will lower the height of the incoming waves in that place and also assist you as you will be travelling in the same direction as the water is running. Rips are a cause of problems for swimmers who get caught in them and pulled out to sea but the power of this current is what you what are looking to harness. Don’t be too concerned if you can’t see it and don’t use it if you do see it but it takes you close to dangerous areas.
Sheltered areas. Dependant on swell direction you may find that there is some protection afforded by running up the inside of groynes, piers, rocks etc. If this looks to be the case watch closely for a while to make sure that there are no larger waves coming through that might behave differently, that there is nothing that looks like it is likely to drag you in too close and that there are no partially submerged obstacles and also be aware of rebounding waves.
Breaking zone. Look where the waves get to before they curl over and break. A wave will roll in until it’s too tall for the depth and will then trip over itself. Look where the sets of larger waves are tripping over and look where the smaller ones between them are breaking. Judge things to avoid being caught by breaking waves which remove control from the paddler. You are going to have to go out through these and it helps to know what you’re facing and where you’ll face it.
Wave Sets. Waves usually roll in as groups. A large set (for example 3 or 4 waves) will come in and break before a smaller set follows it in. Following these will be another larger set of waves. Watch them over the course of two or three sets and look for patterns. The object is to be in the water ready to go as the remnants of the last of the larger ones rolls under the hull. Let the big ones come through and then paddle out – quickly – on the smaller ones.
Danger zones. Is there somewhere to avoid? An area of rocks, groynes or other obstructions that the kayak may end up thrown into? Are there other beach or water users in the area? Consider what will happen if you don’t get it right first time.
Contingencies. If kayak and paddler become separated what then? Which way is the kayak likely to go, where and how can the paddler get ashore, what assistance is available if difficulties arise.
Before committing it is time to have one last check of things onboard. Where possible break down and stow fishing rods and other longer equipment – aside from snapping they can cause entanglement. If access to the hull isn’t feasible once out then strap them down along the side of the kayak bearing in mind that they need to be as out of the way as possible. Ensure that all equipment on deck is leashed (with the shortest leashes fitted that are practical). Check that radios, rescue knifes and whistles are secure, buoyancy aid is fully fastened, you are not leashed to the kayak and finally, providing that it is safe to do so, unleash the paddle. Bear in mind that if swimmers are in the water it is NOT safe to do so. Paddle leash entanglement can be a danger and can also interfere with paddle use so it is better to come through surf without it.
So, the sea has been studied. Now comes the time to make the decisions. Where are you going to go in, where is the impact zone and how long have you got to get beyond that. Once you are happy then it’s time to go.
Launch. Pull the kayak out and go as deep as you can while still being able to get on quickly. This is usually somewhere between knee and thigh height. Hold the kayak in one hand and the paddle in the other, correctly oriented to go as soon as you are onboard. Keep the kayak straight and upright and as the foam from the last of the larger set comes through jump on, get your feet in and paddle. Don’t stop. Don’t panic. Just dig deep and push through. If a wave is rearing up towards you lean forwards and keep going – just because you think it will get you doesn’t mean it will. When climbing up the face reach forward and use the paddle to ‘pull’ yourself over it if you can, if not, keep it high and dig it in as soon as the wave come through. Above all, keep yourself straight and keep yourself moving. If spray hits your face and blinds you keep paddling.
If things don’t go as planned and you end up going over or off the side grab hold of the kayak. If capsized try and upright it. Slow down, think about what is happening and what you want to do. Look at the waves. You now have two choices – come back in with the waves or get back on and continue. Make sure you have a clear area to get back on if trying to re-enter and wait until the right moment – let the wave come, haul yourself on, if the next one is close stay there, let it pass and then continue with the re-entry. If it takes three waves to get on without coming off so be it. Once on, paddle. Re-entry in the surf zone can be difficult, keep low at all times and try to keep to the side of the kayak with the nose pointing into the waves.
Do not let go of the paddle if you do get separated from your kayak as aside from any additional flotation it gives this is the most effective propulsion you have available. Use it to paddle yourself ashore as it is far more efficient and effective than swimming, especially as there is likely to be an undertow and you may well be in a rip current.
There is no better preparation for dealing with surf than to practice launching, paddling and landing in it. Time spent getting wet through choice is time that benefits when wanting to stay dry.
click pic for video of Mark in action
........................................................................................................
Coming in:
I love surfing my kayaks; there’s not many better feelings than picking up a wave and shooting into the beach and I like to go and play in waves whenever I can but there is always an exception and for me there’s one time I don’t appreciate surfing and that is when I’m coming in from a few hours fishing with a loaded boat. This isn’t the time for excitement.
Being tipped out or rolled in the surf is perhaps the most common reason for ending up in the water and is quite often unavoidable. Being hit by a big wave with a force of many tons of pressure takes a lot of practice and skill to cope with successfully but the kayak is still going to do whatever the wave wants it to. So what can make things go that little bit easier?
First things first, look at what is happening. While paddling in towards the beach keep an eye on what is happening on the shore and then, before getting to the surf zone, stop and look properly. The more information gathered at this point the better. So what must you look for?
Rip currents. Lots of water is hitting the beach and it has to go somewhere, specifically it has to leave and this route out is what you’re looking for as the rip will lower the height of the incoming waves in that place – this is also the place to paddle out through in the first place.
Breaking zone. Look where the waves get to before they curl over and break. A wave will roll in until it’s too tall for the depth and will then trip over itself. Look where the sets of larger waves are tripping over and look where the smaller ones between them are breaking. Judge things to avoid being caught by breaking waves which remove control from the paddler.
Wave Sets. Waves usually roll in as groups. A large set (for example 3 or 4 waves) will come in and break before a smaller set follows it in. Following these will be another larger set of waves. If surfing is the aim then choose the larger sets for excitement but if getting ashore with the minimum fuss is the desired option then wait for the last of the larger set to pass under the hull before paddling in on the smaller ones following. While it is often suggested to paddle in on the back of a large wave it is extremely difficult to match it for speed and the speed attained trying to do so will increase the chance of forcing the kayak into surfing the face of the following one.
Danger zones. Is there somewhere to avoid? An area of rocks, groynes or other obstructions that the kayak may end up thrown into? Are there other beach or water users in the area?
Calmer areas. Sometimes a feature will give some shelter that can be used to make things easier and safer. If the beach has groynes look at how the sea is alongside them. One side might be big and fast while the other may be smaller and calmer. Be aware that there may be obstructions underneath the water and that rebounding waves can make things less predictable.
So, the sea has been studied. Now comes the time to make the decisions. Make a plan of action and stick to it as much as possible. These decisions are:
Landing spot. Decide where on the beach you wish to end up and aim for that. It might not be the place at which landfall is eventually made but it is better to have an intention to focus on when things start to happen than not.
Take-off. From the landing spot, track backwards through the rip to where the waves are breaking. The object is to wait behind the area that the larger sets are breaking ready to go. Stay close enough to make it through between sets but far enough out that a larger wave won’t break on you unexpectedly.
Contingencies. If kayak and paddler become separated what then? Which way is the kayak likely to go, where and how can the paddler get ashore, what assistance is available if difficulties arise.
Before committing it is time to have one last check of things onboard. Where possible break down and stow fishing rods and other longer equipment – aside from snapping they can cause entanglement. If access to the hull isn’t feasible then strap them down along the side of the kayak bearing in mind that they need to be as out of the way as possible. Anything that can go inside the hull should – trolleys, anchor systems, electronics. Ensure remaining equipment on deck is leashed (with the shortest leashes fitted that are practical). Check that radios, rescue knifes and whistles are secure, buoyancy aid is fully fastened, you are not leashed to the kayak and finally, providing that it is safe to do so, unleash the paddle. Bear in mind that if swimmers are in the water it is NOT safe to do so. Paddle leash entanglement can be a danger and can also interfere with paddle use so it is better to come through surf without it. If out with others it is advisable to land one at a time and assist each other where necessary.
Time to commit. Things to remember are:
Keep straight. This is the most difficult aspect of landing in surf with a long and fully laden kayak. Point the nose straight at the beach and try to keep it there. To do this use your paddle as a rudder by leaning backwards and exerting as much turning pressure as required. Be quick to react because once a turn begins you have very little time to correct it. Also useful are legs. These can be used individually to assist steerage through pivoting on them or as stabilisers with both over the side in a straddled position. If the kayak still turns, lean into the wave and try to cut back through to the other side or to slide upright and parallel in towards the beach.
Keep upright. If the kayak turns and becomes broadside to the waves forget about trying to steer and concentrate on remaining upright. If the nose begins to sink at the bow due to the steep angle of a wave lean backwards to keep it up to reduce the chances of the force of the water causing the kayak to rotate around it as a pivot once submerged. Keep balanced; lean into the wave, brace with the paddle or your hands and try to avoid digging the paddle in as this can also bring about a roll.
It is sometimes suggested that coming in through surf backwards is safer. Having tried this my feeling is that this is not the case. While it allows a good view of approaching waves it makes progress slower and it is far more difficult to keep the kayak straight and under control. Additionally the stern of a kayak with a tankwell has less buoyancy and is more likely to bury than a bow which is designed with lift – especially in conjunction with leaning backwards. Likewise, it is often suggested to deploy a drogue to keep the kayak straight. While I haven’t tried this myself it will indeed keep the kayak straight but will also reduce the speed of the kayak keeping you in the surf zone longer and at the mercy of breaking waves. It also adds an additional line in which to get caught in should you end up in the water. (This is why I won’t try it).
As the kayak reaches land hit the beach running. As soon as the kayak is in, jump out and drag it out of the water and out of the way and then check for any lost equipment floating around.
Of course this assumes that things went right. If they didn’t, what then?
The paddler is in the water. If the kayak is upright it probably won’t be for long. If at all possible grab hold of the kayak, get on the seaward side of it and use it as a float to bring you ashore; hold on and enjoy the ride. If on the shoreward side get out of the way, quickly. A ton of water pushing a kayak hurts and can also do longer-lasting physical damage. Do not let go of the paddle as aside from any additional flotation it gives this is the most effective propulsion if separated from the kayak. Use it to paddle yourself ashore as it is far more efficient and effective than swimming, especially as there is likely to be an undertow.
There is no better preparation for dealing with surf than to practice launching, paddling and landing in it. Time spent getting wet through choice is time that benefits when wanting to stay dry.
Going out:
Sometimes when you want to launch the waves are a bit bigger than you’d like but still within reason. So, deciding that you still want to launch and you are confident that you can get through them what do you need to do to assist yourself in getting out? Well, the first thing to do is look at what is happening and think:
On the shore, look at what is happening in front of you. There is an advantage over coming back in here in that it is far easier to see what is happening and place it visually in terms of height and distance. Don’t be in a rush to get on the water as a couple of minutes now can save ten minutes if it goes wrong. Things to look for:
Rip currents. Lots of water is hitting the beach and it has to go somewhere, specifically it has to leave and this route out is what you’re looking for as the rip will lower the height of the incoming waves in that place and also assist you as you will be travelling in the same direction as the water is running. Rips are a cause of problems for swimmers who get caught in them and pulled out to sea but the power of this current is what you what are looking to harness. Don’t be too concerned if you can’t see it and don’t use it if you do see it but it takes you close to dangerous areas.
Sheltered areas. Dependant on swell direction you may find that there is some protection afforded by running up the inside of groynes, piers, rocks etc. If this looks to be the case watch closely for a while to make sure that there are no larger waves coming through that might behave differently, that there is nothing that looks like it is likely to drag you in too close and that there are no partially submerged obstacles and also be aware of rebounding waves.
Breaking zone. Look where the waves get to before they curl over and break. A wave will roll in until it’s too tall for the depth and will then trip over itself. Look where the sets of larger waves are tripping over and look where the smaller ones between them are breaking. Judge things to avoid being caught by breaking waves which remove control from the paddler. You are going to have to go out through these and it helps to know what you’re facing and where you’ll face it.
Wave Sets. Waves usually roll in as groups. A large set (for example 3 or 4 waves) will come in and break before a smaller set follows it in. Following these will be another larger set of waves. Watch them over the course of two or three sets and look for patterns. The object is to be in the water ready to go as the remnants of the last of the larger ones rolls under the hull. Let the big ones come through and then paddle out – quickly – on the smaller ones.
Danger zones. Is there somewhere to avoid? An area of rocks, groynes or other obstructions that the kayak may end up thrown into? Are there other beach or water users in the area? Consider what will happen if you don’t get it right first time.
Contingencies. If kayak and paddler become separated what then? Which way is the kayak likely to go, where and how can the paddler get ashore, what assistance is available if difficulties arise.
Before committing it is time to have one last check of things onboard. Where possible break down and stow fishing rods and other longer equipment – aside from snapping they can cause entanglement. If access to the hull isn’t feasible once out then strap them down along the side of the kayak bearing in mind that they need to be as out of the way as possible. Ensure that all equipment on deck is leashed (with the shortest leashes fitted that are practical). Check that radios, rescue knifes and whistles are secure, buoyancy aid is fully fastened, you are not leashed to the kayak and finally, providing that it is safe to do so, unleash the paddle. Bear in mind that if swimmers are in the water it is NOT safe to do so. Paddle leash entanglement can be a danger and can also interfere with paddle use so it is better to come through surf without it.
So, the sea has been studied. Now comes the time to make the decisions. Where are you going to go in, where is the impact zone and how long have you got to get beyond that. Once you are happy then it’s time to go.
Launch. Pull the kayak out and go as deep as you can while still being able to get on quickly. This is usually somewhere between knee and thigh height. Hold the kayak in one hand and the paddle in the other, correctly oriented to go as soon as you are onboard. Keep the kayak straight and upright and as the foam from the last of the larger set comes through jump on, get your feet in and paddle. Don’t stop. Don’t panic. Just dig deep and push through. If a wave is rearing up towards you lean forwards and keep going – just because you think it will get you doesn’t mean it will. When climbing up the face reach forward and use the paddle to ‘pull’ yourself over it if you can, if not, keep it high and dig it in as soon as the wave come through. Above all, keep yourself straight and keep yourself moving. If spray hits your face and blinds you keep paddling.
If things don’t go as planned and you end up going over or off the side grab hold of the kayak. If capsized try and upright it. Slow down, think about what is happening and what you want to do. Look at the waves. You now have two choices – come back in with the waves or get back on and continue. Make sure you have a clear area to get back on if trying to re-enter and wait until the right moment – let the wave come, haul yourself on, if the next one is close stay there, let it pass and then continue with the re-entry. If it takes three waves to get on without coming off so be it. Once on, paddle. Re-entry in the surf zone can be difficult, keep low at all times and try to keep to the side of the kayak with the nose pointing into the waves.
Do not let go of the paddle if you do get separated from your kayak as aside from any additional flotation it gives this is the most effective propulsion you have available. Use it to paddle yourself ashore as it is far more efficient and effective than swimming, especially as there is likely to be an undertow and you may well be in a rip current.
There is no better preparation for dealing with surf than to practice launching, paddling and landing in it. Time spent getting wet through choice is time that benefits when wanting to stay dry.
click pic for video of Mark in action
........................................................................................................
Coming in:
I love surfing my kayaks; there’s not many better feelings than picking up a wave and shooting into the beach and I like to go and play in waves whenever I can but there is always an exception and for me there’s one time I don’t appreciate surfing and that is when I’m coming in from a few hours fishing with a loaded boat. This isn’t the time for excitement.
Being tipped out or rolled in the surf is perhaps the most common reason for ending up in the water and is quite often unavoidable. Being hit by a big wave with a force of many tons of pressure takes a lot of practice and skill to cope with successfully but the kayak is still going to do whatever the wave wants it to. So what can make things go that little bit easier?
First things first, look at what is happening. While paddling in towards the beach keep an eye on what is happening on the shore and then, before getting to the surf zone, stop and look properly. The more information gathered at this point the better. So what must you look for?
Rip currents. Lots of water is hitting the beach and it has to go somewhere, specifically it has to leave and this route out is what you’re looking for as the rip will lower the height of the incoming waves in that place – this is also the place to paddle out through in the first place.
Breaking zone. Look where the waves get to before they curl over and break. A wave will roll in until it’s too tall for the depth and will then trip over itself. Look where the sets of larger waves are tripping over and look where the smaller ones between them are breaking. Judge things to avoid being caught by breaking waves which remove control from the paddler.
Wave Sets. Waves usually roll in as groups. A large set (for example 3 or 4 waves) will come in and break before a smaller set follows it in. Following these will be another larger set of waves. If surfing is the aim then choose the larger sets for excitement but if getting ashore with the minimum fuss is the desired option then wait for the last of the larger set to pass under the hull before paddling in on the smaller ones following. While it is often suggested to paddle in on the back of a large wave it is extremely difficult to match it for speed and the speed attained trying to do so will increase the chance of forcing the kayak into surfing the face of the following one.
Danger zones. Is there somewhere to avoid? An area of rocks, groynes or other obstructions that the kayak may end up thrown into? Are there other beach or water users in the area?
Calmer areas. Sometimes a feature will give some shelter that can be used to make things easier and safer. If the beach has groynes look at how the sea is alongside them. One side might be big and fast while the other may be smaller and calmer. Be aware that there may be obstructions underneath the water and that rebounding waves can make things less predictable.
So, the sea has been studied. Now comes the time to make the decisions. Make a plan of action and stick to it as much as possible. These decisions are:
Landing spot. Decide where on the beach you wish to end up and aim for that. It might not be the place at which landfall is eventually made but it is better to have an intention to focus on when things start to happen than not.
Take-off. From the landing spot, track backwards through the rip to where the waves are breaking. The object is to wait behind the area that the larger sets are breaking ready to go. Stay close enough to make it through between sets but far enough out that a larger wave won’t break on you unexpectedly.
Contingencies. If kayak and paddler become separated what then? Which way is the kayak likely to go, where and how can the paddler get ashore, what assistance is available if difficulties arise.
Before committing it is time to have one last check of things onboard. Where possible break down and stow fishing rods and other longer equipment – aside from snapping they can cause entanglement. If access to the hull isn’t feasible then strap them down along the side of the kayak bearing in mind that they need to be as out of the way as possible. Anything that can go inside the hull should – trolleys, anchor systems, electronics. Ensure remaining equipment on deck is leashed (with the shortest leashes fitted that are practical). Check that radios, rescue knifes and whistles are secure, buoyancy aid is fully fastened, you are not leashed to the kayak and finally, providing that it is safe to do so, unleash the paddle. Bear in mind that if swimmers are in the water it is NOT safe to do so. Paddle leash entanglement can be a danger and can also interfere with paddle use so it is better to come through surf without it. If out with others it is advisable to land one at a time and assist each other where necessary.
Time to commit. Things to remember are:
Keep straight. This is the most difficult aspect of landing in surf with a long and fully laden kayak. Point the nose straight at the beach and try to keep it there. To do this use your paddle as a rudder by leaning backwards and exerting as much turning pressure as required. Be quick to react because once a turn begins you have very little time to correct it. Also useful are legs. These can be used individually to assist steerage through pivoting on them or as stabilisers with both over the side in a straddled position. If the kayak still turns, lean into the wave and try to cut back through to the other side or to slide upright and parallel in towards the beach.
Keep upright. If the kayak turns and becomes broadside to the waves forget about trying to steer and concentrate on remaining upright. If the nose begins to sink at the bow due to the steep angle of a wave lean backwards to keep it up to reduce the chances of the force of the water causing the kayak to rotate around it as a pivot once submerged. Keep balanced; lean into the wave, brace with the paddle or your hands and try to avoid digging the paddle in as this can also bring about a roll.
It is sometimes suggested that coming in through surf backwards is safer. Having tried this my feeling is that this is not the case. While it allows a good view of approaching waves it makes progress slower and it is far more difficult to keep the kayak straight and under control. Additionally the stern of a kayak with a tankwell has less buoyancy and is more likely to bury than a bow which is designed with lift – especially in conjunction with leaning backwards. Likewise, it is often suggested to deploy a drogue to keep the kayak straight. While I haven’t tried this myself it will indeed keep the kayak straight but will also reduce the speed of the kayak keeping you in the surf zone longer and at the mercy of breaking waves. It also adds an additional line in which to get caught in should you end up in the water. (This is why I won’t try it).
As the kayak reaches land hit the beach running. As soon as the kayak is in, jump out and drag it out of the water and out of the way and then check for any lost equipment floating around.
Of course this assumes that things went right. If they didn’t, what then?
The paddler is in the water. If the kayak is upright it probably won’t be for long. If at all possible grab hold of the kayak, get on the seaward side of it and use it as a float to bring you ashore; hold on and enjoy the ride. If on the shoreward side get out of the way, quickly. A ton of water pushing a kayak hurts and can also do longer-lasting physical damage. Do not let go of the paddle as aside from any additional flotation it gives this is the most effective propulsion if separated from the kayak. Use it to paddle yourself ashore as it is far more efficient and effective than swimming, especially as there is likely to be an undertow.
There is no better preparation for dealing with surf than to practice launching, paddling and landing in it. Time spent getting wet through choice is time that benefits when wanting to stay dry.
