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Post by Annie & Monk D'wally D'honk on Jan 15, 2009 12:17:22 GMT
Hello all I wonder if you could help.
I acquired a boat last year and am looking at getting it ready for the coming season. The boat is a Sea Nymph 17 fiberglass simulated clinker, from around mid to late eighties( I think ). The hull is in its original gel coat and does have some dings which have been re-gelled. Also some crazing on the top sides. I don't want to paint the entire hull but will be keeping the boat on a mooring this year, so my attention is going to be focused below the waterline. I've read loads of stuff on the net ( hard to tell the good from bad advice ) and tried to pick out what I think I need to do. Can anyone comment on the below and recommend any products and the best way to use them.
1 - Epoxy up to and below the waterline. Any advice on preparing the Gel Coat and applying the Epoxy? 2 - Prime ready for the Anti Foul. Do I really need to prime before the AntiFoul 3 - Anti Foul the hull and use a harder Anti Foul on the bow and around the waterline.
Thanks very much in advance
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Post by Pete B on Jan 15, 2009 18:57:02 GMT
Hello all I wonder if you could help. I acquired a boat last year and am looking at getting it ready for the coming season. The boat is a Sea Nymph 17 fiberglass simulated clinker, from around mid to late eighties( I think ). The hull is in its original gel coat and does have some dings which have been re-gelled. Also some crazing on the top sides. I don't want to paint the entire hull but will be keeping the boat on a mooring this year, so my attention is going to be focused below the waterline. I've read loads of stuff on the net ( hard to tell the good from bad advice ) and tried to pick out what I think I need to do. Can anyone comment on the below and recommend any products and the best way to use them. 1 - Epoxy up to and below the waterline. Any advice on preparing the Gel Coat and applying the Epoxy? 2 - Prime ready for the Anti Foul. Do I really need to prime before the AntiFoul 3 - Anti Foul the hull and use a harder Anti Foul on the bow and around the waterline. Thanks very much in advance Hi, good fun ahead. 1) Yes, epoxy is really worth while to build a good moisture barrier and prevent osmosis setting in. Theres two choices - solvent based or solvent free. If your going onto bare gelcoat I would look into Solvent Free Epoxy as apparently the bare laminate will suck up solvents & can then blister. The Solvent free Epoxy is a much better product & will provide the same moisture barrier in 2 coats as 5 coats of solvent based. The only thing I will say is that if your planning to do it this time of year you really need to get the boat into a dry & warm enviroment for a few days prior to & right through the job. DONT TRY TO APPLY EPOXY THIS TIME OF YEAR, IT'LL END IN TEARS Solvent based epoxy dries at lower temps but neither product should be applied until summer for outside applications. Preparation wont be much more than a light key with some medium grade abrasive, dust off & de-grease. (obviously after any filling / making good) 2) Some epoxy will require a primer between it & the anti-foul & some dont, decide what epoxy your going to use & then download a data-sheet, this will tell you the if the epoxy & the AF is compatible without a primer. 3) Just buy a hard antifoul (power boat antifoul) that works with your choice of epoxy. Dont worry about differing AF's for bow & waterline. I personally would look into what epoxy system is best suiting to your needs & then buy a hard antifoul that corresponds with it. Look into Blakes SFE which is Solvent-Free & Gel-shield 200 is a Solvent based. The biggest problem you face is the British climate. Sounds daunting but its really quite straight forward. If I can be more detailed on anything please let me know All the best.
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Salar
crew member
Live to Fish
Posts: 98
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Post by Salar on Jan 16, 2009 9:13:32 GMT
I would avoid painting above the waterline unless you absolutely have to, much better to put the effort in to repair and re-shine the original gel coat (much easier too). Below the waterline you do need antifouling and this link will help: www.boat-angling.co.uk/Hints_and_Tips/Howtopaintantifouling.htmAlso, you need some form of galvanic protection (sacrificial annodes) so your metalwork below water does not rot off. Keep the outboard tipped up and not left in the down position too. All the best N
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